Day 37, 28km
From Cnoc nan Righreon, where the path meets the valley floor at Strath na Sealga to Kinlochewe
The day starts well but it is grey and overcast all day and I feel unwell for the first time on this trip. I decide I need to stay on a campsite and rest. The Kinlochewe Club Campsite has space for four tents so a grab a spot and do various camp things, shower, the washing, charging batteries. I spend a pleasant evening in a pub eating and chatting to a couple of medical students who are on the way up the Cape Wrath Trail. There is a local store but it was shut early so no restocking. I am planning that in Strathcarron where there is a lovely store and a post office.
Day 38, 20km
From Kinlochewe to Coiré Grannda
I was so looking forward to Ben Eighe but I feel like I have a cold and a bit of a lung infection. There is low cloud and it is still raining and cold. Better play it safe so I walk down the A896 hoping to find an easy camp near the Ling Hut. I start up the path towards Coiré Grannda and Bealach Bàn and there is no place suitable pitch. I toil up to Coiré Grannda and finally there is a few possibilities. The plan was for an, easy day but that did not turn out so well and I saw nothing of Ben Eighe. I am still feeling unwell, but the coiré is sublime in the swirling clouds.
Day 39, 31km
From Coiré Grannda to Maol Bhuidhe Bothy
I am up early, lots to do and I want to reach Maol Bhuidhe Bothy tonight. Although the weather is still cold and wet the first hour of the trail is lovely and I feel a bit better. On the way down the glen I meet some backpackers going the other way. They marvel at my skinny shoes, now full of holes. I boast about how well they have worked for me and ten minutes later bash my middle toe on a rock. Pride before a fall, etc. I think it might be broken but it moves OK, so just bruised then. It is now bright red and sore as hell. At least it takes my mind off my headache. Down on the A896 and a quick hitch to Lochhcarron a resupply. I enjoy a big cooked english breakfast fry up and coffee in a cafe and another hitch back up the road followed by a short walk that takes me to Strathcarron Station and Achintee.
It is up over and down through Attadale, round Loch Calavie. I am almost through, I don’t like to walk when I am in this state of fatigue but I do want to get to the bothy. I have spent to many nights in a tent and I think I need a day of rest. So I head across and down to the burn that feeds Loch Cruoshie. The traditional way is on the west of the loch so I try the east side, The channel is boggy on the bottom but in the loch itself is sandy, 50 cm deep and firm. I wade through it to an Island cross that and wade the rest of the way. This had been a long and difficult day with a sore toe aching with each step. Never mind I am happy to be at a bothy and one of the most remote. No one else here so I spend a quiet evening.
Day 40
Rest Day at Maol Bhuidhe Bothy
Today is my birthday and I am loving spending it in a quiet bothy with my feet up. My toe is a nice shade of purple and I invent ways to put padding around it. All my socks, I have three pairs, are full of holes. I consider darning them again but it is not worth it. A better plan is to wear all of them at once as none of the holes line up. So between them they make one complete sock. My shoes are now pretty ruined. They have a number of holes in the upper which means they are always letting little stones in. So I regularly stand in a stream and wash each foot to clear the debris. But the main worry is the tread is now worn near flat. I am having to concentrate more on each step to prevent slipping. Well maybe I could go to Fort William and buy a new pair. In the evening a German Backpacker joins me and helps to celebrate my birthday with me.
Day 41, 29km
Maol Bhuidhe Bothy, down Gleann Gaorsaic, Gleann Gnìomhaidh to An Caorann Mòr.
After the Iron lodge I headed up the hill in front of Carnach farm rather than continuing to the path to the Falls of Glomach which leads on to Sheil Bridge. Instead I wanted to gain the long deep valley which dog-legs east where I can join a second valley, An Caorann Mòr. The path to the Falls of Glomach is supposed to be precipitous, the one I took looked as bad although very steep had no really bad bits. Along the glen the path was good, bad then disappeared to reappear around the dog-leg. Once walking down the next glen after fording a large river I started looking out for camping spots but it took to the Bealach till I found something. It has now been raining for the last six days, not constantly, but during this time I don’t think I have seen a patch of blue sky.
Day 42, 28km
An Caorann Mòr to Loch Cluanie across Glen Loyne over Màm na Seilg to Glen Garry and Garrygualach
After a coffee at the Cluanie Inn, you could save half an hour by going straight down the west side of Allt Giubhais burn rather than go behind Creag Liathtais as I found the path and going down the slope equally bad, or good. The path up the other side of the river Loyne over to Glen Garry is surprisingly good and easy to follow. After crossing the river Garry at the bridge, the OS map does not seen to accurate here as the forest roads are new. I went up the road a kilometre or so then took an unmarked turning left down to a small building where you can find a way across the burn and join the established path which takes you safely through some very boggy land. In front of the abandoned cottage at Garrygualach down near the river there were a few nice places to camp with a view from the tent up the river towards the sunset.
A note on my physical and mental state after 6 weeks on the trail. I am physically fit with two exceptions. The stiffness in my joints when I stop then have to start walking again, which makes me look like a stick puppet all jerky movements. I have taken supplements to protect my joints. Secondly my sore feet which is a direct result of my shoes wearing out. There is no insole left in my shoes and the tread has all but been worn away and this makes rough roads painful to walk on. The skin on my feet is now quite thick as my body has adapted to the thin shoes but I am also not so sure of my footing so I have to concentrate more on each step.
As for my mental health I am still really enjoying the walk, but in it entirety, save three nights in bothies, I have had only a couple of midge free nights where I could open the tent. This means as soon as I stop I have to stay in my tent inner. My tent has been brilliant and tall enough for me to sit up in at the middle. But at either end it is narrow so my head feels quite enclosed when I lie down. I am now worryingly sick of this and start to get anxious feelings at night. I am not sleeping properly and this disturbed sleep is causing an increased feeling of exhaustion. I really need some good nights sleep. I need to take action about this and reconsider my route. I call up hostels in Fort William and Glen Coe and book a night in each. Tomorrow night I will head slightly off trail to the Invermallie Bothy and stay there for a night. There is Cadderlie bothy on Loch Etive side if I can reach that I will, which leaves one night in a tent here and one on the Island of Lismore, the last night of the trip. This means I won’t be bypassing Fort William and miss the beautiful trail between Spean Bridge and Kinlochleven. Well better to adapt and survive. This is not (going to be called) the ‘Devils Trail’ for nothing. Up until now nothing has made me think I wouldn’t reach the end. There has been a run of really dreich weather and the calm rainy conditions has led to a real midge fest. My bad luck.
Day 43, 23km
Garrygualach to Invermallie bothy
I sleep badly but count my blessings, I am here in this beautiful place and an exciting days walk ahead. Also I have 10 km breakfast to energise me. The object of todays trail is to find a way from Glen Garry through the hills to Loch Arkaig. It should cut out some extended road walking from the original route. It is an easy forest walk to Greenfield then there is a path marked on the map which does and does not exist. I do and don’t follow it into some really bad ground but I am enjoying myself, probably no one has trod this path for years.
It would be better to follow the established roads going east from Greenfield then turn back west to gain the path marked on the map skirting around the lower slopes of Meall a’ Choire Ghlais. Neither the maps nor the satellite imagery is much help here except for the well established roads which should be navigable. My shortcut was not really easier but was fun. Once on the path you contour round until you see a ruin marked ‘Fedden’ on the map across the valley. The way over there is easier than it first appears. A nice place for a quick lunch. From here a path will take you all the way down to the Eas Chia-aig Waterfalls and the B8005.
I think it might be easier to take a slightly lower path near the burn just past Fedden. I took the higher so can only say it wasn’t the best. Once you cross the burn on the hidden bridge you will be on a path along the side of the forest until a rough road starts and this is followed till a smaller steeper path takes you past the Eas Chia-aig Waterfalls and onto the road. From here I walked along the picturesque loch Arkaig to Invermallie bothy which is a wee bit run down, but it is not a tent so I am happy.
Day 44, 21km
From Invermallie bothy to Chase the Wild Goose Hostel, Fort William.
Take the road past Achnacarry and you are soon on part of the Great Glen Way which winds along the shore of Loch Lochy with lovely views. The path goes up above the road and here you should fill up your water bottles as it is the only place to get anything to drink until you reach Fort William. The towpath of the Caledonian Canal does not have any cafe at its northern end.
This is the first time I’m walking through a rural environment since, around Lochcarron and there are cows in fields and dogs in gardens and cyclists, and bungalows with lawns and garden ornaments. All very strange.
There are a few backpackers going up the Great Glen Way. I meet one at a picnic bench, a young german man. He is looking mournfully at his gas stove. He bought the wrong type of cylinder in Fort William which won’t fit his stove. I have a spare gas canister and his face lights up when I fetch it from my bag. A swap for some biscuits as I have run out of food this morning. The last few kilometres zip past.
At the Neptunes Staircase Locks, there is a traditional iron boat, a Puffer Steamer which was designed with a flat bottom for beach landing and used to distribute goods around the smaller Islands of Scotland. Look up ‘Para Handy’ on the net for a classic bit of Scottish comedy from the 70’s set on this type of boat. I never thought I would see one in the flesh.
I arrive too early for the Hostel, it opens for guests at 5pm. But luckily I find a person in charge before they go on their break and am able to leave my pack with them. The hostel is at Banavie, an hours walk from the centre of town. I walk to Fort William realising how nice it would have been to bypass Fort William. The cars speed passed too loudly. The views just spoilt with all this town in the way. But there are shops, big shops. I end up eating lunch bought from Lidl on a park bench even though there are plenty of restaurants. There are a couple of Outdoor supply shops but they don’t have any shoes I can wear, I have wide feet. But I treat myself to a new pair of socks. Now my feet feel like they have won the lottery and I decide to spare them the walk back as there is a train service leaving soon.
This ends the Cape Wrath Trail in reverse. I did not expect to walk via Fort William but have arrived and forgot I had just completed the Cape Wrath Trail and should be celebrating. But the bigger goal of completing the Devils Trail still awaits.