The Sutherland Circuit
Sutherland Circuit 186 miles. 300 km. 9,500m 1 x Everest 14 Day
With this route it is possible to make a Sutherland Circuit, that starts and ends in Ullapool. This rivals the Skye trail in its beauty but is more wild, rugged and sustained. It is a complete loop with no repeat ways. It goes east from Cape Wrath walking through the Foinaven range to rejoin the Cape Wrath trail passing behind Ben More Assynt to Oykel Bridge and returns to Ullapool through a series of picturesque Scottish glens. It is sublime walking both grand and beautiful, and takes in coastal paths, traverses high cliffs, over spectacular mountains and across beautiful beaches. Days 23 to 35
Day 23, 8 km (continued)
Ullapool to Loch Dubh
Having stocked up in Stornaway no need to visit the shops in Ullapool. There is a big Tesco’s Store, but if you don’t know where it is you might miss it. There is also a van selling stone baked Pizza which looks delicious, but the queue is long and a passing shower dissuades me from buying one for my tea. My clothing has been one of my better decisions, but it is not particularly warm, so I cannot stand around without feeling chilly.
Umbrella up I make my way out of Ullapool on the A835 north watching the ferry sail up the Loch Broom on its return to journey to Stornaway. I making a few phone calls as I anticipate much less phone coverage in following few weeks. I want to make this interesting walking so I take the small path turning right passed the Industrial Estate. The path is marked on the map and should take me to the south of Beinn Giuthais. But after a steep meander over fern covered slope I find nothing worth following. It looks like new tree planting has obscured this part of the path.
I decide discretion is the better part of valour and retrace my steps. Phew a half hour of wasted time and energy and I’m on to plan B. Up the road a kilometre is a small forest. Just passed this is a road sign to the municipal dump. Along here for a kilometre or so could be places to camp, above the compound, you pass on your left, it is less easy to find flat ground. Follow this rough road to a bridge over the stream marked Glac Bhuidhe on the map which will bring you to the shores of Loch Dubh. This is rough ground and it has been a long day, not sustained walking but much to manage, so as it gets to the evening I need a place to camp. There is a little peninsular at the bottom of the loch and it provides a couple of flattish pitches, though nothing particularly comfortable. A better campsite lies ahead as I found out the next day.
Tomorrow I am planning a long day. But three unknowns lie ahead, if I can crack them then the Sutherland Trail, is possible. Also the ‘Iona Cape Wrath trail’ and the whole ‘Devils Trail’ becomes a reality. I’m excited and scared in equal measure. I want this to be a safe trail in ways I have mentioned before ie. not including the possibility of sudden death from a fall, but also challenging. A certain amount of exposure and danger, that is expected, the difference between this and ‘Scrambling’ where a rope would be a comfort is a fine one.
Many Munros require a head for heights, some feel positively risky at my age. It is strange that as a youth my desire for danger was more when I had so much more to loose, now having lived a good life I care more that my life might continue for as long as possible. This balance is particularly important as solo backpacking is becoming more popular, mainly because of the introduction of portable emergency satellite devices. But they cannot help if you loose consciousness, or fall near a cliff that blocks the satellite signal. A friend with first aid experience is much more useful under those conditions.
‘The Posties Path’, is famous, historic, and epic but I could not find any recent information on its condition. Nor much specific info, is it dangerous or just feels exposed. Secondly I intended to walk through the Coigach range down the side of Sgùrr an Fhìdhleir which I had climbed up 25 years ago. But I could not remember how hard it was. Then to finish the day was an unknown river crossing. It is an unusual crossing, a short section of water that connects Loch Lurgainn to Loch Bad a’ Ghaill. Again I could not find anyone who had done this crossing. If this can be crossed then the whole route makes sense, otherwise it would require a long diversion around two lochs, not too bad but something of the purity of a route would be lost. There needs to be both a logic and a reason to a trail, but it also needs to be as direct as possible. If these three cruxes can be traversed then ahead lies Stac Pollaidh, and the minimal of road walking till Kinlochbervie. My thoughts are full of concerns for the day ahead, but my belly full of good food and I am warm and dry. To sleep and perhaps to dream.
Day 24, 23 km
The Postie’s Path over the Coigach range and down to Stac Pollaidh
The most important days walking on this trail and I’m up early to a beautiful Dawn with wisps of mist across the loch and a golden sunrise. The best way round the loch is to skirt the shore on sheets of rock and gravel to gain a small dam. Traverse this, the gates were unlocked but there would be no difficulty if they were. You are now on a nice rough road with lochs on your left and right and the views from here over the Coigach range are superb. You cross a bridge where it is a good idea to fill up your water bottles as there is a lovely potential campsite at the next dam. This is where I would camp on leaving Ullapool had I known. Follow the path down the hill and continue on it till you pass a cottage and reach the road near the bridge. Take the first left passed Runie Lodge. Along this river are a series of lovely camping spots. At Blughasary farm there is a carpark and some signs for the Postie’s Path. This ancient path, which in the last century was used by the local postal service to deliver mail to Achduart from Blughasary, is 11 km long and is known for its magnificent coastal views.
The path rises steeply at first and thanks to Scottish Wildlife Trust (With: Coigach Community Development Company, Highland Council and Keanchulish Estate) and volunteers, there are way markers at regular intervals, though as another walker remarked to me later, the posts seem to be well spaced in the easier sections then quite sparse on the steeper areas where you feel you need them the most. He also thought it was much more dangerous than I did so as ever these descriptions are a personal take and your milage may vary. The path cuts across the headland till it starts to cross some steep slopes above considerable drops.
There is a section here of about 50 meters which feels exposed and the way marks seem to disappear but even in its most overgrown state I did not feel I could loose the path. It looks much worse than it actually is and in my judgement a slip would lead to catching yourself in the foliage and on the ground just below the path. You are treated to an unfolding of classic views, loch, sea, islands, mountains and distant horizons with the added excitement of the sea 50 meters below.
An easier section ahead until you reach near a deep cut burn. You have to ascend along the nearer side of an old iron fence to find where the path crosses the stream further up the slope. Ahead looks impassible but I take heart that looking back looks the same. The waypoints are there and helpful. Once you are on your way you can see the ground is not as steep as it first appeared and you are soon past the worst.
Brill the first crux of this day passed and without the risks I had feared. The views were amazing, clouds dotting a blue sky over a rich blue sea. Having done this, unlike the Carsaig Arches path, I wouldn’t mind doing it again. Now in my impatience I head up a path following the Allt nan Coisiche burn. It heads right to Garbh Choireachan leaving me to yomp up the steep slope ahead. It is better to continue past Culnacraig to a well established path that leads steeply then gently to the summit of Sgùrr an Fhìdhleir (705m). There are a few walkers here, the first I have met since, well, Skye. I would have wanted to summit for the views but am too concerned about the next crux of this route. To the right of Sgùrr an Fhìdhleir there is another view to die for, Stac Pollach framed between the steep face of Sgùrr an Fhìdhleir and Beinn an Eòin. At this point it starts to rain and makes the view is less photogenic.
Now head towards the lip of the gully between the cliffs and you can see a small path. Take this down, it is not as bad as it looks, and half way down you can keep left to meet the bottom of the valley. The second unknown done with minimum fuss. You are now faced with a few kilometres of rough boulder strewn pathless ground. The weather has improved and I stop for a late lunch and dry the tent, (I left early in the morning with the tent wet with dew). My way through rough ground is to choose a landmark, like a bolder, a few hundred meters ahead and walk to it, then the next and the next. The ground heads steeply down towards Loch Lurgainn. You can see where it might be possible to cross between Loch Lurgain and Loch Bad na h-Achlaise.
Here you are faced with a one of those nasty little bits of trail, a steep boulder covered forested section where there is no obvious way down. I choose to contour left. Looking back from the loch side I think it would have been better to head straight down as there was a small beach which would provide a way along the shore. I almost finished my walk here. My foot disappears into a hole between the earth and a large boulder. My foot hit a rock twisted and disappeared further in. My knee was painful. I got myself out and cursed. Things like this could end my walk, but after 5 minutes the pain seemed to ease and I continue down the hill more courteously. A short rough walking on sore legs and I am standing at the last unknown: the strait, or channel, that flows between these two lochs. On close inspection it is broken up with lots of boulders and looks passable.
Learning to cross rivers and burns safely is very important. Gauging what is or isn’t safe is a survival skill. I have crossed enough water to be confident in the way I do this. I wear shoes that are always getting wet. So I am prepared to walk through water. You can spend a long time with boots taking them off then putting them back on. Then you have to go barefoot, which is not so stable as it sounds or with some compromise sandal which again is often prone to slip. Secondly I use two trekking poles which I extend to near maximum for water crossing. This allows me to walk through the stream easily. Don’t try to jump across stones keeping your feet dry. You can easily slip and then you will be falling into water from height on an uneven surface and that can lead to injuries. Better use the sticks for stability and to judge the strength of the flow. Then place your feet with surety on the bottom of the river. I do this and am quickly across. I didn’t even have to check if there was a better place to cross it was not so difficult. Crux number three completed and the whole trail is now a reality. I am very pleased.
There are a few places close by to pitch a tent. I start the tent pitching dance. Checking each flat spot, bending down to check the angles, looking for slopes, bumps and bogs, then moving on 20 meters to the next and the next until I am happy I have found the best place for the tent. Not perfect but it will do and the views are AMAZING. Stac Pollach above me, the lochs in front.
Midges arrive soon but I am so tired I don’t care. At this point I can decide to go to Cape Wrath and finish my walk or continue to do the whole loop. I do some calculations and realise that I am pretty much at the half way mark if I am going to return to Oban. Part of an ambitious walk is you have to tell people you are going to do it, so there is an amount of pride involved in being able to return and say I said I’d do this hard thing and I have. But having only spent four consecutive nights in a tent before this, I had no real way to know if I could manage this. My father who is eternally supportive said I would be back in ten days. I knew now nothing was going to stop me getting to Cape Wrath. But did I want to spend another three weeks returning to Oban. My partner would want to know.
Day 25, 10km
Stac Pollach to the coastal path, Inverpolly Lodge and Loch an Èisg Brachaidh
Stac Pollach ridge is found quickly, via the righthand path which takes you round the back and up to the rocky ridge. On the path, which is quite busy, was an Adder snake with a distinctive zigzag markings. It looked laconically around at me before making its way off the path and disappeared into the undergrowth. The first Adder I have ever seen.
I had assumed it was an easy walk along to the summit and was unaware it required some scrambling to reach the top. I wandered along finding the ridge more and more challenging till I was jamming my hands, and scratching my watch in the process, in a crack over a significant drop. I realised this was no place for me with a backpack and trekking poles. What I needed was a route description, a partner, some time and possibly a length of rope. So I returned down the ridge without gaining the summit.
My plan was now to walk the pathless long grassy ridge that runs north west towards the coast from Stac Pollach till it intersects the single track road to Lochinver. A short walk down the road takes you to the River Polly, then cross the bridge and turn left onto the road to Inverpolly Lodge. Continue passed the houses and down to the boat house where you cross the weir and gain a very old but rarely used path that will take you two hard kilometres to rejoin the main road at the beautiful bay of Loch an Èisg Brachaidh.
However this little path involves careful navigation. If you follow the map you should not be too far away from it. But there are boggy bits and forested bit and steep slopes and all the lovely interesting walking that makes two kilometres feel like another place in history. Nothing here is anything but nature, it feels beautifully remote. It is getting late so find a pitch and hole up for the evening.
Day 26, 23km
from Loch an Èisg Brachaidh, over Suilven and Loch na Gainimh
I had planned to try to avoid the road walking from here but there were no obvious ways to climb up and over. Although the road was narrow it was without any significant traffic, and the views along the bay very pretty so it was not unpleasant and I reached the turning to the path that takes you along the River Kirkaig towards the mighty Suilven. With Suilven ahead I did not divert to see the Kirkaig falls and soon turned a corner and there was the first glimpse of the spectacular western buttresses of the mountain.
The weather is set fair and the path easy to follow. A day for the umbrella to act as a sunshade and to remember to drink loads of water. My shakes; green veg and brown choc protein/carbs, my fizzy vitamins and salts tablets make this pleasurable. Over the course of the trip I got into the habit of drinking from my bottle every time I cross a stream, burn or river, So I am keeping well hydrated. Important because I sweat plenty on the slope up to the Suilven ridge.
It is a very steep path inducing a sense of vertigo, but it is not as impassable as it might appear from below. I decide this time I will get to the summit and head off along the ridge which is a bit scrambly and one little exposed path. But the summit is broad and today flying ants are hatching and cover the whole of the area. The views are as you would imagine, immense and unforgettable except when I try to film it the flying ants get in the way. Back down the ridge and the northern path down is slightly easier.
Now I make an error which I will presently correct. My plan was to turning right and down to the Suileag bothy and find a camp there so that I can go up to Loch Assynt tomorrow and then round it to Inchnamph. This I think is a superior route to the way I went. I therefore have no description of it so I will head off up there sometime soon and spend a couple of days retracing my steps to the Suileag bothy and making my way from there along the south shore of Loch Assynt to Inchnadamph. The great hill Canisp stands proud ahead of me and I imagine it would be nice to traverse that on my way to crossing the River Loanan and following the A837 down to Inchnadamph. I walk to the head of Loch na Gainimh and although it is not easy I find a pitch and the day is done. I had not checked the weather forecast, my mistake.
Day 27, 21km
Loch na Gainimh passed Inchnadamph to Loch na Gainmhich
I wake to atroctious weather and no chance to get up Canisp, so the alternative would be to follow the path to where it peters out on the north side of Lochan Fada. Then it is some rough walking up and over the side of Canisp in the rain and clouds walking on a compass bearing and then contouring around to reach Meallan Liath Mòr and then in better weather down to cross the River Loanan at Stronchrubie farm. At this point the river despite plenty of rain around is easy to ford. I expect it would be as easy nearer loch Assynt.
A couple of kilometers of easy road walking takes me to Inchnadamph where I visit the ‘Assynt Field Centre’ Hostel who are very friendly. I ask if I could pitch my tent in the grounds to dry it a little while I take a breather in their lounge. They go one better and let me use the drying room. They also make me a coffee for free and I buy a few snacks from their shop for lunch. I meet a french walker who is doing parts of the Cape wrath trail and we swap a few notes and hope to meet further up the trail. He and his friends are staying in the hostel. There is no room in the Inn for me and I think I still have time to get around Glas Bheinn and down to Loch na Gainmhich where I hope to spend the night. The path has fantastic views and is relatively gentle up to the bealach at 750 meters.
From there it goes from fantastic to very fantastic, a unique landscape to walk through down an established trail. through a very rocky landscape. It is possible to peel off to check out the Chùal Aluinn Waterfall, which is the highest continuous waterfall in the UK. I have less time and so need to stretch my legs to get down the path to the end of the loch where there are a few places to camp. This Sutherland landscape is rough, tough, remote and so much fun to walk through.
Day 28, 39km
Loch na Gainimh to Achriesgill
Quinag dominates the views around here and catches the dawn sunshine. It is early and I want to get going, partly because I want to do the walk through Kylesku on the A894, 7km, before there is too much traffic and partly because I want to reach Cape Wrath as soon as possible. The walk from Ullapool is very demanding, the way ahead should be easier, fingers crossed. There are two ways across the moor either turn right at Kylestrome and follow a path that ends near Loch Clach á Chinn Duibh.
Then it is a yomp across the moor to the next path where a small peak is marked 355 on the map. Then follow this path down to Lochstack Lodge. This is the way I took. It is fine if you like to cross really hard terrain. Where there is no path no one should have to go, it is wonderfully wild ground, undulating on the micro and macro scale, boggy, stony and fantastic fun, but after doing that route I kind of think staying on the main road till Duartmore Bridge would save time and energy even though it is longer route by the map.
From here there is a path around the base of Arkle and after abandoning this path you traipse across some rough ground to gain a rough path up a narrow glen to Rhiconich. The weather has been getting steadily worse during the day and now it is consistent drizzle. This sounds OK but it is remarkable how wet you get after a few hours. Also and very annoying in deed were the midges who did not respect the fact I was travelling through and attacked me all the way down this glen. I had thought, mistakenly, that the narrow glen would encourage a breeze to blow there but there was not a ripple on the water. I was tired. I tried walking in my midge hat, but the path was well boggy and I was stumbling because I could not see so well. At the end of this glen the path is overgrown so all the leafs transferred their water to me just to make sure I was truly soaked. Better stock up with water here. Ferns were covering up any place to camp and the midges were getting to me today and I was cold.
It was the first time I had struggled this much. Later I realised how far I had walked but at the time I did not and was kind of walking on empty. Ahead was a road walk and there wasn’t any place to pitch a tent. I should have tried the hotel but just felt too unpresentable. I would have dripped all over the carpets. There is a little picnic spot marked on the map just short of Achriesgil and at the side of it behind a couple of boulders there was a flat piece of ground. The lay-by was full of camper vans. I pitched the tent in the rain and in the midge storm and felt rather low.
An hour later someone asked me to open the tent and it was the local camping officer, (who knew there was such a thing?) who handed me a leaflet on safe camping and suggested I was not allowed to pitch there as it was too close to the road. He of course was right but I had two boulders between me and the road and felt safe enough. He also admitted the midges were some of the worst he had experienced. I explained they were the reason I had to pitch here and he did not ask me to move, ‘this time’. I felt even lower as I now had slugs crawling over my tent to add to the million midges. Oh well, but I checked the map and I had walked a huge day and was within striking distance of the Cape. I also knew that this was a beautiful journey. So often a very special day will follow a rough one.
Day 29, 35km
Achriesgil to Cape Wrath then the Kervaig Bothy
A midgy, sluggy morning but I’m used to it and put my head down to make it 5km to Kinlochbervie where there is a Spar shop hidden behind a warehouse at the far side of the harbour. There is no sign post, you have to hunt for it. It would open by 9am and as I had a few minutes to spare a trip to the run down public toilet at the docks, any port in a storm. I was able to restock for the next 6 days at the Spar and my bag was weighty now. But to my disappointment I saw very little in the way of Cafes. I put this down to it being so far north. But I would have loved. hot coffee just about now.
Another 12 km takes me along the road then a popular path to Sandwood bay and the weather is clearing, there is even a person swimming. Now I have forgotten all about the day before.
Here is, possibly, most beautiful beach in the UK, stretching three kilometres in length with about three people on it. I walk through the surf, I wonder at the space and green blue sea. Life is good and maybe I get to Cape Wrath today. The last 10 kilometres or so are said to be rough. The last five through a bombing range and military training area. I have tried to check to see if it is open or closed. It is normally open, and like most of these things where officialdom meets public information services, the help line is unmanned and the website vague, I am 80 percent sure I can proceed. I try to follow the path on the map.
The Harvey maps for the Cape Wrath Trail are quite accurate normally and the little path symbols give a good idea of whether the path is distinct or barely there. From the beach to the top of Cnoc á Ruaidh (182m) there is no path I could find so just head up to the top of the hill from any point accessible from the beach and don’t worry you might be missing a better route. Once you are at the top it is easier to see the path below and to follow along if not on it, then on where it is logical it should go. When you get to the fence with all the military warning notices with luck there are no red flags.
You have to descend right down to near sea level to cross the stream then a steep climb up 150 meters and a skirting around some steep slopes. The cliffs are very big here but you don’t have to go anywhere near the edge if you don’t want to. The views are pretty amazing. From Geodha Ruadh na Fola you should be able to see in the distance the tip of Cape Wrath Lighthouse. What you are looking for here in the moorland ahead is a burn in a cutting which points towards the road. There is a path in this cutting running up the side of the burn. I think this is the easiest route on smooth ground. I walked on the right side above the burn but this is harder terrain and the path ran out.
The road is gained after a short climb. A little under two kilometres are all that is left till the Iona to Cape Wrath Trail is complete. My legs were about finished now and my feet sore.
Sutherland is not an easy terrain to navigate and this was my second long day in a row. The ones before were only shorter because I spent so much time climbing up and down so they were no less tiring. I hobbled like so many before me into the lighthouse compound, dropped my pack by the open door to the cafe and walked the last 50 meters to the end of this island. That was the ‘Iona to Cape Wrath Trail’, 650 km or 400 miles long and climbs 20,200m in elevation or 2.3 Everests. It had taken me 30 Days, with two days off trail. So let us say a round month, including the journey to Iona and the journey back to Glasgow. That would be a good estimation of the time needed for this trail.
I returned to the ‘Ozone Cafe’, it was empty. The cafe is open 365 days a year, 24 hours a day and serves a selection of hot and cold snacks. There are also gifts and souvenirs for sale. It feels like I am at a place that is the end of something (the country, the trail, my feet?), it has that airy, eerie kind of feeling a most special atmosphere. I looked around a bit at the memorabilia then rung the bell on the counter. John arrives, he is a tall thoughtful man, the proprietor, who lives out on this remote cliff top running the Cafe and welcoming visitors. He is kind and interested in my walk especially as I tell him I am half way and I am going to return to Oban which will be about 660 miles or 1000 kilometres. He suggests I call it the ’The Devils Trail’ as it is near enough 666 miles. I think that is a genius idea, but until I complete it, it is is only a notional trail, perhaps the name will fit. I will try it for size. Once or if I get back to Oban I can decide.
He suggests a couple of dishes from the menu, macaroni cheese on toast or Baked beens on toast. I go for the baked beans and a beer and a coffee. It is of course the best baked beans I have ever eaten with about seven pieces of toast, I must be looking hungry. He assumes I will be staying at the Kervaig bothy tonight and directs me to the best way to reach it. My heart sinks as he explains it is ONLY 5 miles (or 8.7km) down the road. Well it is still early and the sun is shining. The lovely hot food and drink has restored me a little and so I put a painful foot forward looking back to try to fix the whole experience of this magical place in my memory.
I am mostly hobbling but the kilometres pass by quickly to the bridge then up the hill to turn off the main road by an abandoned van. Down this track for another kilometre and I reach the Bothy. It is a few meters from a white sandy beach with cliffs on either side and views down the coastal cliffs. It is a very beautiful spot. There is a party of three canoeists at the bothy but there is room for everyone. They are heading around the Cape tomorrow and canoeing down the coast after that, how amazing. I seriously consider abandoning this walking lark in favour of the sea, especially when they reveal the benefits; you don’t have to carry your load, and there is plenty of space in the canoe for luxuries like bottles of wine and well anything else nice. But when I consider the intricacies of forecasts and tides I remember why I do my traveling this way. The simplicity of carrying everything you need on your back and being able to stop and stay literally anywhere leads to a freedom very rare in this modern world and I treasure it deeply. Before I sleep I smile at how this day turned from sluggy/midgy to relaxed comfort via the end of the earth.